Category Archives: Product Reviews

ima Shaker

Welcome! To the ima EMAILER ~ May 2008 Issue
The IMA EMAILER brings you news from IMA pro staff members Bill Smith, Fred Roumbanis,  Michael Murphy and other Ima pro staffers across the USA and worldwide.


Good News! This month’s emailer is all about the ima Shaker crankbait.


Designer Bill Smith Debuts Long-Awaited ima Shaker Crankbait

Hello. It is BASSMASTER Elite Angler Bill Smith here and I am proud to say that I designed the ima Shaker for you. It is a small, flat-sided, shallow-diving crankbait with a thin computer board lip. At 2-3/4 inches long, the Shaker weighs 3/8 oz and runs 3 to 5 feet deep. With its internal weight transfer system, the Shaker let’s one reach unprecedented casting distances with a crankbait of this kind.

I designed the ima Shaker to improve upon and replace the flat-sided balsa crankbaits that are regional favorites in my section of the country, the southeast USA. I grew up fishing balsa crankbaits for over twenty years, and I know them well. I know what are balsa’s merits as well as balsa’s weaknesses.

Since the Shaker is the latest improvement upon and replacement for balsa, I feel it is appropriate to first share a few words with you about the Shaker’s predecessors – balsa crankbaits. So first, here is a bit of the interesting history of balsa cranks…

A Little Background on Balsa Crankbaits

Originally, going back over forty years, the Big O is one of the first milestones. The original Big O they say was whittled by hand out of balsa wood by Fred Young of Oak Ridge, Tennessee in the late 1960’s – and they say that is the start of balsa crankbaits for bass in the USA. Mr. Young was not the only one whittling balsa crankbaits in the region 40 years ago, but the Big O is the one to achieve some sort of national fame and lasting historical significance. It really only did that because it was reproduced in hard plastic during the early 1970’s by Cotton Cordell and quickly sold by the millions. But my point is that as far back as 40 years ago, hand-carved balsa crankbaits were popular and prized baits across the south even then.

Other early and legendary names in balsa crankbaits include Jim Bagley, Lee Sisson and certainly Rapala. As I understand it, these were on the scene since the early to mid-1970’s. Today, these names still have national and worldwide recognition. When it comes to balsa crankbaits, many bass anglers may be familiar with those names.

What’s not so well-known outside the region is the ongoing refinement of locally hand-crafted balsa crankbaits by lure builders across the region and states of Virginia, West Virginia, Tennessee, Kentucky, Alabama, Georgia, Indiana, Ohio, Illinois and parts thereabouts. This is all considered balsa crankbait country.

Especially within the last twenty years or so (since the mid-1980’s), many of the locally-produced balsa crankbaits used across this region have been refined to a fine art. This is woodworking and furniture-manufacturing country, where whittling’s a pastime and a handful of guys here have the modern toolshops and wherewithal to produce high quality balsa crankbaits.

There was an old gentlemen from whom I remember my Dad would buy hand-crafted wood topwater lures. This fellow worked in a furniture factory, and made lures in his spare time. This old gentleman did not even fish, but he paid close attention to the constant feedback from the anglers who were his customers, like my Dad. He’d make the changes they suggested to him, thereby improving his topwater products. Both the anglers and the artisan took a sense of pride from this. Over time, he gained quite a local reputation and following for well-made, fish-catching topwater baits. Now take someone with that woodworking skill and love, with a little tool shop, who takes pride in their work and also likes to fish, and that’s what’s been happening for the past twenty years in this part of the country with regionally-produced balsa crankbaits.

You can think of what’s going on here as being similar to what’s gone on with swimbaits on the west coast. For the longest time, swimbaits were a local phenomena, designed, developed, locally-made and used on the west coast as an effective way to catch the bass there. Of course, we see today that swimbaits work everywhere, not just California.

Likewise, balsa crankbaits made in and used across the southeast, have been local favorites for the longest time.

But as we’ve found with swimbaits, these balsa crankbaits (and now the ima Shaker) will also work everywhere, not just in the local region, but everywhere across the USA.

As a Bassmaster Elite Series pro, including all the places I’ve traveled, all the water I’ve fished across the country, 95% of the places I’ve been from coast to coast and border to border, these balsa crankbaits (and now the ima Shaker) have worked for me.

And I can tell you that there isn’t a Bassmaster Elite pro who I know who doesn’t have a box full of flat-sided, hand-made custom balsa crankbaits on his boat, ready to use at every event across the country. These are baits that are hard to get, that have taken years for many of the pros to amass the boxfuls they’ve got. Every pro has them and knows that at any time or any place, flat-sided balsa crankbaits can prove effective.

Introducing the ima Shaker

Now that I’ve gotten you interested to try balsa crankbaits, let me tell you that the new ima Shaker is an improvement upon and replacement for a certain kind of balsa bait – the flat-sided crankbait.

The flat-sided balsa bait gained a following in the Tennessee/Alabama market years ago. It’s real strong on the Tennessee River chain, and also on Ohio River system, where they seriously refined the trend of the smaller flat-sided baits to imitate smaller shad so prevalent there. Over time, this flat-sided crank spread throughout the southeast market.

The ima Shaker is the very latest flat-sided crank that matches this most common smaller size of shad.

The Shaker has a very lifelike baitfish appearance. With the flat sides, the Shaker imitates more of a shad than the typical fat, bulbous, round-bodied crankbait. The flat-sided Shaker looks like a shad and has a more realistic profile. Yet it still has the characteristic wide wobble of a balsa bait.

However, the ima Shaker is not balsa. The Shaker is a new injection-molded hard plastic bait with a computer board lip. The Shaker is designed to have all the merits but none of the weaknesses of balsa.

Some of the big disadvantages of balsa crankbaits versus the ima Shaker are:

Good Quality Balsa Crankbaits Ima Shaker
They can’t take but one good hit on a rock or a log or the diving bill may loosen from the surrounding softer balsa lip slot. The main factor is durability, the lip stays in. The lip slot is molded (not hand-cut) with a very tight tolerance that helps fortify and secure the computer board lip within the surrounding, tightly-fitting hard plastic.
The line tie eye and hook hangers are screwed-in, slots for lips and belly weights are drilled and then glued by hand, not always perfectly. The component parts, hangers, eyes, weighting system and lip are precisely fitted into injected-molded bodies, with little to no possibility of being off.
The hook hangers or front line tie eye can loosen up under a little too much pressure or pull right out of balsa. The hook hanger and line tie are molded in “figure-eight” stainless wire. Not likely to ever pull out under normal fishing conditions.
A balsa body will often break toward the thinner tail section, especially if a fish is hooked on the tail treble only. The hard plastic body is not likely to ever break under normal fishing conditions.
Balsa is a light wood and especially with the flat sides, hard to cast. It often waffles in the air like a potato chip, falling all too short, causing nasty line snarls or backlashes. The Shaker features an internal weight transfer system allowing the bait to fly incredibly far distances on the cast with greater accuracy and line control.
No two are ever quite the same, due to the natural inconsistencies of each piece of wood, plus the line tie, hangers, belly weights, lips are not always consistent. For any 12 balsa baits, you tend to find 2-3 are truly good and will catch most of your fish. Another 6-8 may only ever be average catchers, and 2-3 may never work well. ima has eliminated this problem of inconsistent baits. Every Shaker will run true straight out of the package. The buoyancy rate and action will be the same each time. We took a long time to get the ima Shaker perfect, based on decades of experience using balsa. We made the prototype Shaker the  best we could – and precision injection-molding makes it consistent for every single bait.
The good ones are hand-made and always hard to get. Often you have to be a pro or know the lure builder to have any chance. If you place an order today, the waiting list may take from one to two years for some. The ima Shaker is readily available now at fine tackle shops across North America. Anyone can get the Shaker, a lure similar to the hard-to-get flat-sided balsa cranks that most of the top pros have a boxful.
Because they are so fragile and hard-to-get, most anglers avoid using their best balsa cranks in heavy cover, the very places that fish favor most. The ima Shaker can be fished through all difficult cover – around docks, rocks, stumps – that would utterly destroy a balsa crankbait. The bodies won’t break or chip and loose chunks (like balsa does) when they flare off of wood or a rock.
Good quality balsa cranks are expensive. The Shaker costs less than good hand-made balsa crankbaits. The Shaker is a GREAT BUY when you think that you are spending more for a hand-made balsa bait that you don’t know will run true and balsa has the potential of getting destroyed quickly.

As you can see above, the Shaker is designed to imitate a balsa bait, and improve on it. The advantages of the Shaker over balsa are many – more durable, lasts longer and with its internal weight transfer system, is easier and more accurate to cast than balsa.

Because a flat-sided balsa crank is such a poor casting lure, a lot of time you can only use one with 6-8 pound spinning gear to have any hope of casting a decent distance. Even then, you are probably talking about a 40 foot cast with a balsa crank on light line spinning gear versus a 60 foot cast with the ima Shaker on 10-15 pound baitcasting gear. That heavier grade of baitcasting gear could pull a balsa crank apart like it was cotton candy – if you could even cast a balsa bait on such gear (you really can’t).

So you’re comparing 60 feet with the Shaker on a 10-15 pound baitcaster versus 40 feet for balsa on 6-8 lb spinning gear.

That’s 20 feet longer that the Shaker is in the water, attracting fish, on every cast. That’s significant and equates to more fish caught due to the Shaker staying longer in the strike zone.

So not only is the Shaker more durable, able to withstand the force of heavier tackle, but also casts much further (and accurately) and can be fished in dense cover that fish love.


Color Patterns

The hard-plastic injection-molded nature of the ima Shaker is a radical new departure from balsa crankbaits – but the finishes and color patterns are not.

The ima Shaker finishes make them look like they’re balsa cranks. When painted and finished, it’s hard to tell at first whether the Shaker is plastic or wood.

We’ve tried to stay true to the well-known regional color patterns used on hand-made balsa cranks across the southeast, plus we’ve stayed with the unique names used for these regional color patterns.

The guys in the southeast who throw balsa cranks will be familiar with these names and colors. They are derived from favorite colors of parochial balsa baits –  like the color Plemmons is one of the most famous. That has been around for ages, and everyone in the region knows what color it is just from the name – Plemmons.

Besides Plemmons, Coach Dog and Dolphin are probably the three most famous colors in the region.

Another unique color is named Hortin as well as Chartreuse Hortin. These are names that have never changed for ages. We felt a need to make the names and colors of the ima Shaker very familiar to the guys in the southeast in balsa bait country. At the same time, it’s going to be a little education or learning experience for anglers in other parts of the country. But don’t worry, you will get familiar with these colors quickly. When you catch a few fish on them, they’ll become your favorites too.

Another color is Lime Coach Dog. If you don’t know what coach dog refers to, it is a Dalmatian. They were trained in days of yore to run alongside and accompany carriages or coaches on the road. So the Coach Dog lure color has Dalmatian spots all over it.

One thing that Lime Coach Dog, Matte Bluegill and Coach Dog (shown above) have in common is that they are early spring time colors. I feel why they work best then is that they really imitate bluegill that are the prevalent forage up shallow then. I could never figure out any rhyme nor reason why, but Coach Dog always seems to work better when the bass first come up shallow in the spring whereas Lime Coach Dog tends to hold up and lasts a little longer through the latter part of spring. Matte bluegill is always effective as long as small bluegill abound.

Plemmons and Rootbeer (shown above). These are two solid shad colors. They excel whenever there are lots of shad around. Now, root beer always seems to work fished right in the thick of the shad. You may wonder about that, because it does not resemble a shad color. In its case, you don’t try to match the hatch. You try to stick out from the rest, and bass hone right in on it.

Some of the other colors – Black Chartreuse for instance, are old familiar standbys. A few of the colors, such as White Shad and Alabama Shad, are simply solid, universal shad colors. Don’t leave home without them.

We talked about color choices above being based on certain seasons or prevalent baitfish. Color choice can also be based on water clarity:

  • Clear water. Matte Bluegill, Hortin and Rootbeer are reliable.
  • Dirty water. Try Dolphin, Black Chartreuse and Coach Dog. There is a little bit of rattle sound which helps. Fish pick up on that little noise, plus the crankbait’s vibration can call them in from a decent distance in dirty water.
  • Stained water. The most productive water color, better than either clear or dirty water. For shallow-running flat-sided crankbaits, I always like to have some stain. A wide variety of colors will work in stained water depending on the season, the prevalent bait and other factors.

Plemmons is probably the favorite color of many because Plemmons works in any water color. So always give Plemmons a try.


Where and When to Use the ima Shaker

The ima Shaker is a shallow diver, running 3 to 5 feet deep.

Therefore, where and when it works best is in shallow water, no more than eight feet deep.

Simply, where you have bass in a water depth of five foot (less than 8 foot), that’s the strike zone within which the Shaker is going to work.

  • Spring and Fall. Bass are most often up in shallow water in the spring and fall. So the Shaker will work anywhere there’s shallow water during spring and fall. Especially in stained or muddy water, fish like to stay up shallow for a longer part of the season.
     
  • Summer. Once you get into the summer season, you need to dissect your lake or reservoir into the main lake body versus the side creeks, the upper river arms or tributary type areas.
     
    In the main lake body or big basin type areas, bass tend to move off the banks and they occupy deeper water beyond the effective range of a shallow-diving crankbait in summer.

    However, there are always some bass shallow all through the summer, especially if you go up into a river arm, the back end of a creek, an inflow end of a reservoir, or anywhere with a current situation, you can produce shallow bass on the Shaker throughout the summer.

    On reservoirs where water is routinely drawn to generate electricity or for whatever purpose they pull water, bass tend to move from deep havens to nearby shallow areas for the duration that moving water flows through those shallows. So even the main lake, when they pull water during the summer months, can have shallow bass willing to belt the Shaker at those times.
     

  • Winter. As in summer, many bass tend to pull into deeper areas off the banks in winter, and in the colder months of the year, bass tend to want a tight-wobbling crankbait anyway. The Shaker is more wide-wobbling.

For those who live up north in smallmouth country or wherever one bass species is more prevalent, you’ll be glad to know the Shaker appeals equally to all three species of bass, largemouth, smallmouth and spotted bass.

The swimming action of the ima Shaker is very unique. It took a lot of time until I got the action perfect. With all that’s written above, there’s just no way I can truly describe how well this crankbait wiggles through the water. You really need to get one and go watch it swim to believe it. Once you see that, you’ll want to use the Shaker all the time.

You can really hit rocks, stumps, shallow structure and not get hung up. Usually, when a crankbait has a real wide wobble, the hooks swing out from side to side and grab everything – but that’s not the case with the ima Shaker. You can go right through tree tops, stump fields and rock jumbles, and unless the bait gets wedged, just give a little slack, and it’s going to float up and over most anything down there.

Okay, here’s one last good tip for when and where to use the Shaker that I’ll tell you and then say goodbye. One thing I do a little different when shad are up on the surface away from the bank, over relatively deep water, the wide wobble of the Shaker swimming through the shad schools will break up the shad, cause the shad to flush, and that can provoke a strike. This little trick can work when bass are present, but not very aggressive on topwater lures. The fact that the Shaker’s a few feet under the surface, and busting up the shad schools as it comes through them can be effective.


 


Thank You! For Reading the ima EMAILER

Ima’s a big name in Japan where Ima is known for its hardbaits. Ima is now making it’s debut in the U.S. market.
U.S. bass pros Bill Smith, Michael Murphy and Fred Roumbanis have helped IMA design new hardbaits for the USA.
We’ll send you stories and tips from Fred, Bill and Michael every month.

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Carolina Rig Basics

I thought I would take a break from tournament coverage and do a post more focused on tips & techniques.  I found this info on Carolina Rigging which is very informative.

Carolina Rigging
D. B. Jackson

Carolina Rig

The Carolina rig is one of the most effective  bass fishing techniques on the planet. Two top 2008 Bassmaster Elite Series pros – Peter T and Kenyon Hill – consider it a mainstay in their arsenal on the tour. Between them they have banked over $1,000,000 using the technique.

And, the great thing about Carolina rigging is that you don’t need to be an expert to use it effectively. It’s easy to make and even easier to use.

The basic rigging is as follows: Thread a sinker and a bead to the main line running off your reel. Then, tie a swivel to the line. The bead should be between the sinker and the swivel.

Tie a leader to the other ring of the swivel and a hook to the far end. Attach your favorite soft plastic lure. Toss it out over your favorite structure or near your favorite cover and you’ll should be good to go.

Those are only the basics, however. To make your rig more effective give these refinements a try.

1. Sound: Beads are made from different materials. Each has its own unique sound as it smacks against the weight; some are loud and clank, others are soft and barely tick. Change beads to create a different sound.

2. Line size and strength: The line running from your reel to the swivel is important but isn’t visible to the fish. It’ll have no effect on lure action or movement. Heavy fluorocarbon or braid increases feel and sensitivity while reducing break-offs. Give one of them if you haven’t already.

3. Tie knots carefully: There are three knots in a Carolina rig – two on the swivel and one on the hook. That’s three places for trouble to develop. Take your time, tie your knots carefully and retie frequently throughout the day.

4. Adjust leader length: The length of your leader directly affects the way your lure looks to a bass. Short leaders tend to keep your bait near the bottom and restrict its action. Longer leaders do just the opposite.

5.  Hook size and design matters: A round bend model is not an offset worm style. And, neither is a circle hook. Make sure your selection suits your style of fishing and the bite pattern of the  the day. 

Buy good, high-quality hooks. Keep them sharp and make sure they’re big enough. Bass have very big mouths. They can handle a big hook.

6. Get creative with your lures: You can rig darn near any bait available with a Carolina rig. Hill used a 10-inch worm on his during the Pride of Georgia. And, don’t think plastic lures are your only choice.

Small, shallow-running crankbaits can be Carolina rigged. They wiggle just fine as they’re being pulled behind a sinker along the bottom. (Rapala minnows and Shad Raps are especially effective when fished this way along sand and rock bottoms.)

7. Vary your retrieve: Most anglers drag the rig back to their boat. That may work some of the time but it won’t work all of the time. Try varying the speed of your drag, give the assembly a hop every now and again. And never be afraid to do something different – radical – if you’re not catching bass.

Fish Harder Carolina Rig Components
Larry Thornhill

Ask any angler on the 2008 Bassmaster Elite Series tour and they’ll tell you that Peter “T” Thliveros is the master of the Carolina rig. Simply put, there is no one that has his level of experience and expertise catching bass with this simple, yet effective, technique.

Fish Harder Companies commissioned Peter T to design component parts for Carolina rigging.  They very best available to anglers today.

“We wanted nothing but the best and so, we went to the best. There’s nothing on the market today that compares to them,” says Tim Gregory, CEO of the Norcross, Georgia based fishing tackle conglomerate.

Peter T Smart Pegs
Tru-Tungsten® Smart Pegs are the most innovative on the market. The peg is designed to recess into the weight for better line protection and easy weight repositioning.  Works great for finesse carolina presentations with lighter weight bullet sinkers.

Smart Peg

Smart Pegs are available in two sizes and two colors.


Peter T Force Beads
These natural composite beads attract fish and produce an extremely loud and unique sound. Each bead is coated with a Duraseal™ coating for added durability and they match our colored weights and your plastic lure to make a uniform bait. They are lead-free and environmentally friendly. The added sensitivity will allow you to Discover the Feel® and the increased loudness will allow you to Fish Harder!

Force Beads

Force Beads are available in 2 sizes and 6 colors.


Peter T Finesse Carolina Weights
Tru-Tungsten® Finesse Carolina Weights increase sensitivity and minimize hang-ups using our insert free 97% pure tungsten. The rounded front easily works through grass and rock, while the concave design on the bottom maximizes sound due to the contact with our Peter “T” Force Beads.

Carolina Rig

Finesse Carolina Weights are available in three sizes and two colors.

Rich
RichLindgren.com 
Rich’s Bassin’ Forum
Bass Fishing Tackle Blog

Baby Steps

Baby steps refer to the slow process of getting my boat and my gear ready for fishing this year, much in part to our new baby girl.  Saturday, I went to Gander Mtn to get my WI & MN fishing license, plus a map of Winnebago Chain for this summer and a new Red Eye Shad in a Neon Shad (Chrome/Blue Back with Red Stripe).  Its very similar to my favorite color Rat-L Trap which is Lake Fork Special.
  Image of Original Rat-L-Trap Crankbaits
Today, I was out in the garage removing all the boxes and other stuff that was being stored on top of my boat.  I also did some maintenance on my trolling motor, batteries and other boat stuff.  Felt good to he out there and tinker around.  My tackle needs some major organization, not likely to happen before the first club tourneys.

My plan is to get out on Lake Marion here in Lakeville next weekend to make sure the motor is running well and she is sea worthy.

I did find time to watch the live weigh-in on Bassmasters.com from Clarks Hill and it was great to see Kenyon Hill get an Elite Series victory.  Here is a snippet from an article on how he caught them:

“Hill’s big bass Sunday hit a shad-colored Sebile swimbait. He also caught fish this week on a chrome-colored Cordell Pencil Popper topwater lure. But Hill said his go-to lure by far this week was a Carolina-rigged Zoom Trick Worm. He fished it on a 3/4-ounce Tru-Tungsten slip sinker paired with a Tru-Tungsten Force Bead, which Hill claims creates a fish-attracting sound as they click across the bottom.

Like almost everyone else in this Elite Series tournament, Hill was targeting shallow flat points where post-spawn largemouth bass were coming to feed on spawning blueback herring baitfish.

Peter T, who finished 8th used a very similar Tru-Tungsten setup and Zoom plastics as well.

Few more email subscribers signed up lately, we are up to 68!!

Rich
RichLindgren.com 
Rich’s Bassin’ Forum
Bass Fishing Tackle Blog

Bass Blog Break

Been awhile since I last made a Blog entry.  I have been on a bit of a hiatus due to the birth of our baby girl Riely Lindgren.  Up here it is finally starting to get warm enough to do a little fishing.  My first tournaments will be 2 club tournaments in Wisconsin on Bone & Deer Lakes – May 17 & 18.  I am looking forward to that, it will be my first fishing from the boat of the year.

Since I last blogged, my buddy Billy Harris from TN broke the lake record smallmouth for Old Hickory with a nearly 7lb monster!!

Todd Faircloth won the Elite Series tournament on Lake Amistad of a “magic tree”, we also got a glimpse of the new Tru-Tungsten Tru-Life Swimbait during the coverage used by Clark Rheem.  Man that bait looked sexy and he caught a nice bass on it as well.  I just got two if my own (7″ Bluegills) in the mail a couple days ago.  They look fantastic!


Well, it we be much easier to keep the blogs current once I get out fishing, so check back often!

Rich
RichLindgren.com 
Rich’s Bassin’ Forum
Bass Fishing Tackle Blog

In Depth with Michael Murphy & the Ima Flit


Good News! This month’s emailer is all about the Flit, but also note that the first major shipment of ima Shaker crankbaits have arrived in stores, with more on the way. We will be doing a full story on the Shaker crankbait in April (not too far away). So please stay tuned, and kindly ask your local tackle shop to carry the ima Shaker crankbaitFlit jerkbait and Roumba wakebait too.


Interview with Michael Murphy on Spring Fishing with the Flit

ima has recently introduced it’s new Flit jerkbait, and  anglers everywhere are eager to be the first to try the new Flit this spring!

In this issue, Michael Murphy (“MM“), designer of the Flit is interviewed, with a question and answer session focused on fishing the Flit during the spring time.

This interview certainly won’t cover every facet of fishing the Flit. We’ve aimed at what you may need to know to get started with the Flit in March and continue using it in April and May. As you read, think spring time and what bass are doing now.  Later in the season, we will share additional tips on using the Flit – summer Flit tactics, fall and winter Flit tactics we will provide in future issues. For now, we hope you enjoy the interesting Flit facets below for spring fishing with the Flit. Thank you.


ima Flit designer Michael Murphy

Q?: To set the scene, what kind or rod, make or model do you fish with the Flit? What reel? What line?

MM: The rod I like to use is the Fenwick Elite Tech, ECPS69MH-F. This is actually a 6’9″ Pitching stick. I stand 6’5″ tall, and with the elevation of the boat bow above the water, standing on the front deck, this rod is the perfect rod for me to be able to point my rod tip straight down without dragging in the water. I believe this is critical for ease of use, to hold the rod straight down without hitting the water, but this will be different for everyone. For a shorter person, it may be a 6′ rod. Overall, I like a medium/heavy action rod with some good backbone but still a good amount of tip for casting, working the lure and for playing a fish gingerly if it is barely hooked.

Q?: How do you recommend to attach your line to the Flit? Why?

MM: Directly to the eyelet. Some like to use a clip on their jerkbaits, hoping to get more action. This action is already naturally build into the Flit without having to do this. Adding a clip would most likely result in the front hook continuously catching the line. A clip is not needed. Simply tie direct to the split ring already provided on the lure. As far as knots, any type of good cinch knot goes well with fluorocarbon, except I do not like to use a Palomar with fluorocarbon since I believe it increases the chances of knot failure, and I do like to use fluorocarbon on my Flit.

Q?: How deep does the Flit dive? Are there any certain types of cover or structure or something else specific that’s an ideal situation for the Flit due to its working depth?

MM: Many jerkbaits are first designed on looks (eye appeal) and then the bill is constructed to achieve action and depth. Since the Flit is designed based on the idea of matching the hatch and to mimic the cadence of baitfish, specifically of the herring family (i.e., blueback herring, gizzard shad and threadfin), the action is already built into the Flit body. The bill is there to only achieve depth, not impart action. If you would like it to achieve its maximum depth, point your rod tip down toward the water to obtain 8 feet of depth on 8 lb fluorocarbon or 6 feet of depth on 10 lb fluorocarbon. You may change the position of your rod tip to make it run shallower. With your rod tip pointing directly up at an eleven o’clock position, you can make it walk just beneath the surface. The Flit very effective, whether used to fish deep on bluff walls or shallow just under docks.

Q?: Is there anything you can do in terms of rod, line or retrieve or any other bait adjustment that lets you reach different depths? Is there anything that can make the difference of getting the Flit a couple of feet deeper or shallower?

MM: As mentioned above. line diameter and also line type do make a difference. The general idea whether using the ima Flit jerkbait or the ima Shaker crankbait, is the smaller the line diameter the deeper the bait will go, simply due to less line drag. However, with the Flit, the exception to this would be at rest. Mono floats and fluoro sinks. You could use this to your advantage to behave differently or run at different depths dependent on specific situations. Again, this will vary among line brands and types. No two lines are exactly the same.

Q?: Sometimes a bait gets categorized as a smallmouth killer or a spotted bass killer, or a largemouth magnet. Do you think the Flit has a special or higher appeal to smallmouth, spotted bass or largemouth? Why or why not?

MM: I couldn’t tell you. The Flit catches all three bass species equally and all very effectively. I think you can’t tag this type of reputation on the Flit, since all three species feed on members of the herring family, which makes them all equally vulnerable. I can tell you, with all three bass species there are no differences. They all eat it most excellently. If anything I would call it the “anything that swims and feeds on baitfish magnet” because it is not just with bass, but it could be redfish, pike, perch, gar, you name it. I have caught practically everything on the Flit so far.

Q?: Some anglers mention having a good jerkbait bite first thing in the morning, and then have it fade out and die on them by mid-morning. Is that something you’ve seen about the Flit bite? Is the Flit bite similar to what some have experienced with an early morning topwater bite, that it’s usually good at first light, and shuts down once the sun hits the water? Or is there anything you can do or any conditions or factors that make for a good Flit bite all day (or as long as those factors remain present)?

MM: No. It is not like that. As the sun comes up, I start to chase shadow lines. It may be the shadow line off of a bridge, dock, trees, bluffs, etc. Seems like bass will just pull tight to these shaded areas. It is not just with jerkbaits, I would say this applies with all lures under these early morning conditions and it is merely the natural behavior of how bass act. I say this, because I would never say a topwater bite will completely shut down. Instead, it will just change. I have had some of my best topwater days on Lake Lanier over 30 feet of water on clear bluebird days catching both spotted bass and largemouth. I think the shutting down of any bite or that sudden “lock jaw” is nothing more than a myth. Strike zones and the willingness to commit may become smaller, or how fish may hold to structure may change under changing conditions. However, at the end of the day. it is all basic behavior and simply what makes the best sense for how a bass can ambush its prey. Bass are always eating, it is just a matter of how or where. I have never seen a tournament where someone did not catch something. So I am not a big believer in a bite shutting down because the fish were not eating. The bite just changes or shifts. As anglers, we may lose the bite, but it’s still going on somewhere.

Q?: What would you say is the biggest error you see anglers make with jerkbaits?

MM: Certainly it’s stereotyping the technique. The belief that it is only good for spring and for post frontal situations. They (jerkbaits) are good all the time.

Q?: Overall, what action are you trying to create with a jerkbait, and with the Flit specifically? What impression are you trying to make on the bass with the Flit? Is it supposed to be an injured or disoriented baitfish – or a perfectly normal baitfish movement?

MM: Both. You can make it look disoriented or like a normal baitfish. Whatever condition or mood the bass may be in, you can match it. The Flit can be fished with random jerk and pause techniques, or with a consistent walking side to side motion. It is based on the concept like a Zoom Fluke or other soft jerkbait, or a topwater like a Super Spook. Both the Fluke and Spook have very effective actions. Now imagine being able to do that on a bigger scale, better and where you are more easily able to catch the fish that are just slapping at it and not really willing to commit. You’ll hook a good percentage of these non-committal fish with a jerkbait.

Q?: With the jerk component of the action you create, do you vary the jerk for different seasons or different reasons?

MM: Yes, the colder or less active the fish are, the tighter the walk or the shorter the jerks I will use with a longer pause. The warmer or more active the fish are, the harder I will lay into the jerks and the more frequent and consistent I will work the lure with less pauses.

Q?: With the pause component of the action you create, do you vary the pause for different seasons or different reasons?

MM: Yes, as mentioned above.

Q?: Which is the most important part, the jerk or the pause?

MM: It depends on the time of the year. Both are equally important. This goes back to the previous two questions.

Q?: What other elements are there to the action? Is the reeling an important element? How fast or how far you reel, do you vary that? Any other elements to the action except the jerk, the pause, the reeling?

MM: I typically reel a quarter to a half a turn per jerk. With this type of technique, the reel is nothing more than a tool to hold the line, and a good drag and high speed retrieve when fighting a fish.

The most important elements to working a jerkbait are the rod action and how you work the rod. In addition, your attention to details of what happens to the jerkbait on different jerks and rod angles, and tying all this together to discover what is most persuasive action to the bass on any given day.

Q?: Do you look to develop a cadence or Flit “action” for the day? That is, once you catch a few on a certain sequence of jerks and pauses, do you find all your fish going for that same sequence of jerking-pausing? Or do you catch fish on a diversity of cadences during the same day?

MM: Absolutely a cadence or “rod action pattern” materializes many days. This goes right along with my previous answer and the paying attention to details that spell what is the fish’s preference for the day or for the situation at hand.

Q?: At what point do most strikes occur? What induces the strike – the jerk, the pause, the reeling in or what?

MM: The pause, over 90% of the time.

Q?: How would you say that jerking, pausing and reeling in a jerkbait differs from popping, pausing and reeling in a topwater popper? Is it essentially the same action for a popper and a jerkbait? If not, what are the differences between working a topwater popper and working a jerkbait (except of course you can see the popper)?

MM: Yes, they’re both pretty much the same. Especially in the aspect that there are about as many different and effective ways to work a popper as there are to work a jerkbait

Q?: What if you suddenly see a bass following the Flit as it gets near the boat (or shore)? What do you do to convert those followers into biters? How do you get them to commit and whack it? Or if they break off the chase and drift away, how do you get them to come back and strike on the next cast?

MM: There is a technique that I discovered with the Flit, and it is the only jerkbait I have found you can do it with, because it has such tight walking action. With the right among of slack before the jerk and immediately after allowing the bait to glide, you can make the Flit literally do a 180 degree about-face. If the fish is trailing close enough and not willing to commit, you can make it bite out of mere reaction with this 180 degree turn-around maneuver. Bass don’t have hands to swat, they use their mouth, and this results in a catch. This does take practice, but it is one of the absolute coolest thing you will ever experience. I did it on Lake Murray with a 5 lb 8 oz bass, it was unbelievable!! I have done it with many other fish, but the 5 lb 8 ouncer was the coolest because it followed the Flit the first cast and peeled off, and then I was able to get it to track it again and I did this 180 on it. It was so funny because it was apparent it hit out of sheer reaction to the 180 turn-around. This bass didn’t even know what to expect or what happened. It just bit, but it didn’t even fight. That was the down side. It was pretty lethargic. At the same time, it was pretty funny.

Q?: How come so many jerkbait bass are partially hooked on the outside of the mouth? Some have suggested that the bass is slapping the lure’s tail or pushing against the lure’s tail so it can turn the long jerkbait 180 and swallow it head-first. What do you think of that?

MM: I used to have fish (two spotted bass, a largemouth, and two crappie) in an aquarium. I would feed them gold fish. If they were hungry and/or competitive, they would eat the gold fish any way they could get them down, sideways, tail first, head first, it didn’t matter. As the competition abated and/or they were getting full, they were more selective and would go for the goldfish head first. However, doing this, is a little harder for them to do. So they would ambush them from the side, battering them, with scales falling off, until the prey moved slow enough and were an easy enough target for them to successfully eat head first. With jerkbaits, I believe that may be what they are doing at times, hitting the jerkbait first as to kill or stun it to make it easier to eat. In many cases they will go through this motion with their mouth closed or mostly closed as to not eat it, just incapacitate it first. With a jerkbait, the hooks may naturally end up on the outside of the mouth.

Another explanation is far simpler. A fish swims up to inspect the bait and simply noses it, much like it would nose a jig, worm, or crayfish on the bottom of the lake out of curiosity, but with a jerkbait, because of the sticky-sharp trebles and the jerking motion of how the lure is worked, the nosy fish may get stuck around its mouth or side of the fish’s head, resulting in a catch. Such fish certainly are not intentionally being snagged, but depending on the particular state regulations or tournament rules, this may or may not be deemed a keepable catch.

Q?: Before we conclude our interview, Michael, are there any other points you’d like to mention about jerkbaits or spring time fishing with  the Flit?

MM: I think we pretty much nailed many of the most important questions. I can’t think of anything else to add. Thank you for asking.


Good News! This month’s emailer is all about the Flit, but also note that the first major shipment of ima Shaker crankbaits have arrived in stores, with more on the way. We will be doing a full story on the Shaker crankbait in April (not too far away). So please stay tuned, and kindly ask your local tackle shop to carry the ima Shaker crankbaitFlit jerkbait and Roumba wakebait too.


Kenyon Hill Catches a Big One – 10lbs 3oz on Kissimmee Chain

Kenyon Hill
Photo: Courtesy of BASS

Kenyon Hill Catches a Big One
D.B. Jackson

Day 2 of the Elite Series Citrus Slam on the Kissimmee Chain was a memorable one for Kenyon Hill.

“I knew she was big but I really didn’t know how big. When I saw her on her bed she looked like a submarine,” says the Norman, Oklahoma professional angler. “It was a thrill to catch a fish like that to say the least. Her weighing 10 pounds, 3 ounces didn’t really surprise me.”

Hill caught his giant – the biggest bass of the event – with a watermelon Picasso Ish Tube rigged with a Â¾ ounce Tru-Tungsten weight and a 12/0 Ish Pro X Hook.

“The Ish Tube is a great bait for bedding bass. I don’t know exactly what they think it is but they eat it, that’s for sure. Maybe they think it’s something attacking their nest or maybe they just want to get it out of the way,” he explains. “But the real key to fishing it on beds is to use the Tru-Tungsten weight.

“The Tru-Tungsten weight is heavy but it’s small because it’s made out of tungsten. That lets you shake and move it in place without dragging it out of the bed. It’ll really stay put with a lot of shaking and jumping. That’s important because if it leaves the bed they loose interest.”
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Hill caught 20 bass, totaling 54 pounds, 4 ounces, in the four day  tournament. He finished 4th behind Kevin VanDam, Ray Sedgwick and Scott Rook.

In Search of the Perfect BassTrix Paddle Tail Hooks…

 By now, you have likely got your hands on some BassTrix Paddle Tail Swimbaits or some of the many similar baits by now.  Now you have a different dilemma….

Almost as difficult of a search to get these soft plastic swimbait bodies, is now trying to find the proper hook.  Odds are, you do not have the proper hooks in your box to fish them, so now you need to find some.  Also likely, your local tackle shop either does not carry them or is out of them because somebody has already cleaned their stock out.  I had the same dilemma when I bought my BassTrix &went to Clarks Hill in November, I really did not have the right hooks to get the job done.   You need a 5/0 or bigger hook & usually a belly weight of some kind to keep your bait down.  Since then, I have done some research and some scouting, the following is what I have found:

The so called BassTrix experts have identified two hooks in particular as their favorites:

Mustad Ultra Point Power Locks – 3 Hooks = $4.99 – $1.67/hook

6/0 Falcon Lures Super Line Bait-Jerker Hooks – 4 hooks = $5.19 – $1.67/hook

You may notice, that I am showing off all these hooks rigged in a 6″ Money Minnow.  That is because I did not want to tear up my BassTrix baits for this demonstration.  As I mentioned, the previous two hooks are the supposed preferred, but just like the BassTrix, many other alternatives have come out to fill the demand. Kind of depends on your preference for a hook with a bait keeper or the offset style.  So here a few more options:

Owner TwistLock – 3 hooks = $4.49 – $1.50/hook

V&M Frog Hook – 4 Hooks = $4.50 – $1.13/hook

Venom Weighted Sickle Hooks – 6 Hooks = $2.99 – $0.50/hook

Gamakatsu Weighted SuperLine EWG – 4 Hooks = $5.99 – $1.50/hook

Here is a picture of the Money Minnow & 6″ BassTrix (Trout) side by side

Also here are a few more hooks that I have found, but have not bought or tried

CritterBait Weighted Swimbait Hooks – 5 hooks = $5.99 – $1.20/hook
CritterBait Weighted Swim Bait Hooks Color Selections
Davis X Swim Weighted Hook –  $4.99 per Pack
Davis X Swim Weighted Hook Color Selections
Davis X Swim Screw Locks Hook – $5.49 per Packs
Davis X Swim Screw Lock Hook Color Selections
All in all, there are more options available, if you favorite stores or internet retailers do not have the hook you want, there are many selling these brand name hooks on eBay as well as some individuals making their own weighted hooks up to 7/0 or 8/0 that also sell those on eBay.

Not sure if I have helped you or confused you more on your quest for the perfect hooks for your BassTrix Baits.  I think I like the 6/0 Falcons & the 5/0 Mustads best, but the 5/0 V&M Frog hook might be the best value.

Rich
RichLindgren.com 
Rich’s Bassin’ Forum
Bass Fishing Tackle Blog

BassTrix Fat Minnow Paddle Tail Swimbait Video

I have been looking around for a video of the BassTrix Paddle Tail Swimbait swimming under water to show of its action and so people can kind of see what the buzz is all about.  So here is a video off of YouTube.

It is kind of a short video, but really shows off the action of the bait.  Not sure which hook or weight its rigged with, as that can actually effect the action quite a bit.

Hope you like it!
Rich
RichLindgren.com 
Rich’s Bassin’ Forum
Bass Fishing Tackle Blog

Tru-Tungsten Impregnated Plastics

Fish Harder Companies

PRESS RELEASE
2/8/2008

For Immediate Release
Contact: Larry Thorhill
[email protected]
Fish Harder Companies

Weighted Plastics

Tru-Tungsten

Impregnated Plastics

 These hand-poured plastics have tungsten powder poured into the plastic. This new system allows for easier rigging and a truer fall. They’re perfect with Texas, Finesse, Carolina or Wacky rigs.

 
The Stinger and Reverse Stinger (worms) are 6.5 inches long and are offered in two fall rates – 6 inches or one foot per second. The Stinger is forward-weighted. The Reverse Stinger is rear-weighted.

The Dart and Reverse Dart (finesse worms) are 5 inches long and are offered in two fall rates – 6 inches or one foot per second. The Dart is forward-weighted and the Reverse Dart is rear-weighted.

These plastics are available in the following colors: Redbug (20), Junebug (21), Grape/Cinnamon Laminate (26), Green Pumpkin (40), Green Pumpkin/Red Flake (45), Watermelon Seed (60), Watermelon Seed/Red Flake (68), Watermelon/Green Purple Flake (69) and Black (85)

 TRU-TUNGSTEN.COM       (724) 349-2260

Stopped at Bass Pro Shops Orlando Yesterday…

My work travels brought me to Orlando on Tuesday and I was fortunate to have a small window before it was time to go to the airport, so I found myself perusing the aisles at Bass Pro and gazing into their huge aquarium.  Man there was a ton of 8lb plus largemouth bass in there!!!

So here is what I bought:

Luck E Strike Bass Magic Shads – there are on of the may BassTrix imitations out there, seems like a nice bait


Yum Big Show Paddle Tail Worms, design by Terry Scroggins, these are great looking worms!


Yum Big Show Craws, also by Scroggins, they little critters look like flippin’ machines!

Well anyways, got a handful of bags of each of these.  Should be a nice addition to my addiction.  For those not fortunate enough to get to a Bass Pro Shops store, I think you can get all these on BassPro.com.  On another note, to feed my addiction, I have been pairing down some of my stuff on ebay lately, so if you are stocking up…  check out my Bass Fishing eBay Store

Also, welcome email subscriber #56 to my Bassin Blog!
Rich
RichLindgren.com 
Rich’s Bassin’ Forum
Bass Fishing Tackle Blog